William Wallace Monument

On a hill overlooking Stirling is a tall tower. This is a better one than the Wellington monument I saw further south, and is a much better lookalike for Sauron's tower. It is the embodiment of Scottish pride and independence, and fie on anyone who disdains it. It is supposed to mark the place where William Wallace stood in 1296 to monitor the english army on the bridge / fields below.

Wallace Monument

This all takes us to a forerunner of Bannockburn, the battle of Stirling Bridge in 1296. The battle seems to have been pretty simple, and was lost by the english mainly due to the idiocy of the english commander. There was a bridge over the Forth, a simple wooden medieval bridge that was narrow by modern standards, and could carry two horses abreast. The english commander ordered his army to start crossing the bridge. Wallace and his forces stood on the hill in the forest and watched the english crossing. When their army was nicely split, and half were on one bank and half on another, Wallace sent his men running down the hill to attack. The english they met were bottled up against the river, split in half, and they lost, unsurprisingly.

The tower is five storeys high, and as you ascend the spiral staircase you pass a series of tower rooms. On the first floor room is an exhibition about Wallace and the battle of Stirling Bridge. The second floor room is entitled the "Hall of Heroes" and exhibits marble busts of sixteen famous Scottish men. I think it's worth considering who these men are because it gives an idea of what the Scottish are all about.

Robert Bruce 1274-1329

King whose defeat of Edward II at Bannockburn established the independence of Scotland.

John Knox 1505-1572

Protestant reformer, who guided the Scots into breaching with the Catholic church: in 1560 the Scottish Parliament declared the country to be independent of the jurisdiction of the Pope, and banned Catholicism.

George Buchanan 1506-1582

Scholar

Allan Ramsay 1686-1758

Portrait painter

Robert Burns 1759-1796

Poet, supposedly.

Thomas Carlyle 1795-1881

Essayist and historian.

Adam Smith 1723-1790

Philosopher and economist, who wrote the paper "The wealth of nations" which contains an excellent description of the industrial economy, and argues for the effectiveness of free, unrestricted trade.

James Watt 1736-1819

The audio-guide said this: "The name of James Watt should be familiar to most people as it is written on nearly every lightbulb in the world". So if ever you need a convincing proof of the greatness of the Scottish nation, just take a lightbulb out of the larder as hold it high and say "Scotland! written on every lightbulb in the world. Nearly".

Robert Tannahill 1774-1810

Poet

Walter Scott 1771-1832

Famous 18th century novelist who romanticised the Scottish Highlands.

William Murdoch 1754-1839

Thomas Chalmers 1780-1847

Sir David Brewster 1781-1868

Scientist in the area of light. He invented the kaleidoscope in 1817.

Hugh Miller 1802-1856

William Ewert Gladstone 1809-1898

A dominant politician of his generation.

David Livingstone 1813-1873

Our friend David Livingstone became famous for exploring the interior of Africa. He seemed to work his way north from South Africa as a Missionary just when the mystery of Africa was becoming very popular amongst the English. I think he is credited with discovering Victoria Falls.

On the third floor the room devotes itself to the history of the monument: how it was funded and built. Above that is a fine viewing platform at the top of the tower which offers fine views of the bends in the Forth, and the town of Stirling below; comparison with the Empire State Building is a little appropriate. On the ground floor of the monument is the obligatory gift shop and visitor's book. I'm surprised they are allowed to open the monument to the public, as it doesn't conform to modern health-and-safety standards, and doesn't offer wheelchair access. These days you can't expect people to have the capability to climb a flight of steps.

(l to r) Walter Scott, William Murdoch and James Watt in the Hall of Heroes

For those who are involved with extreme fitness and can climb two flights of steps, the Hall of Heroes is worth visiting. If you're Scottish you'll find this inspiring. Here, then, is the heart of the Scottish nation. Here in the middle of this monument is where you will find yourself face-to-face with the "great" men of Scotland past. The question is in the air: how are you going to be a great man of Scotland? How are you going to continue the tradition they established? You can probably start by studying at Sterling University, hard by the tower, and from there you choose your own field of endeavour.

I wonder if it's wasted however. Stirling has some wonderful old buildings, but it seems to be quite happy to forget its past and have them build a monstrous, soulless concrete shopping-mall in the middle of town, and a new cinema complex on the far side of the railway line. These modern developments are the same as you will find in any country in Europe, and ruin the heritage, atmosphere and beauty of Stirling. You have to ask whether the local people of Stirling are even aware that they have a heritage. They would probably rather shop for clothes in a fashion boutique or go see a Hollywood blockbuster.

Beautiful Stirling buildings